1.Find your lens mount and your camera mount. 2.Identifying your lens mount: The easiest way to find and confirm your lens mount is to know the mount of the camera it was used on originally. A quick internet search of the camera model followed by lens mount is a sure way to confirm what lens mount you need. For example if you have an old Nikon lens and you know it was used on a Nikon FM2, you can easily find that the lens has a Nikon F-mount. This is particularly useful for lenses that are made for different mounts i.e Sigma and Tamron bring out the same lens with different mounts including EF, F,E so knowing the camera the lens was used on is a good shortcut. If you have an old second hand lens and you are unsure of the camera it was made for, take all the known details of the lens and search the web. 3.Identifying your camera mount: A quick internet search of the camera model followed by lens mount is the quickest way to confirm your camera’s lens mount. E.g. If you have a Sony A7r, a quick search shows it has a Sony E-mount.

Try changing your camera settings to ‘shoot without lens’. Our lens adapters are fully manual,and therefore you need to manually set all electronic functions on your lens and camera.If your camera won’t take a photo,it’s probably because your camera can’t sense a lens attached,that’s why you need to set it to ‘shoot without lens’.Ensure all settings on your lens and camera are put into manual mode too.

Manually set your aperture. If your lens has an aperture ring,use that to set the aperture, and if your lens doesn’t you’ll need to set it manually through your camera settings.

Most likely because you’re using a crop sensor (APS-C) lens on a full frame camera, which causes vignetting or a black border around your image. The black border effect isn’t an issue with your lens adapter,it’s because the size of the lens is designed for a smaller camera sensor.So when you use the APS-C lens with a full frame camera sensor,there is a border around the outside where light from the lens cannot reach.This appears as a black band in the image. Here is an analogy to help you think of this in a different way:Imagine your APS-C lens is a 6x8 photograph and you want to frame it. Your full sensor camera is like a 10x12 picture frame.If you want to use this frame for that photo,there’s going to be some blank space around it. To avoid this happening,you can use crop sensor lenses with crop sensor cameras,and use full frame sensor lenses with crop sensor cameras although the image will be cropped by the size of your camera sensor.

Please note:Although the lens will fit physically,automatic diaphragm,auto-focusing,or any other functions will not operate while using this adapter. There is no electrical contacts in the adapter ring.Full manual operation, manual focus, manual iris adjustment can be achieved with body manual exposure,aperture priority exposure. In this case "stop-down mode" will need to be used when metering since the lens does not have the ability to have its aperture controlled by the camera body. You can shoot in Manual or Aperture Priority Mode. Before use, set your camera Menu:"Shoot without lens".

The longer Flange distance lens to the shorter Flange distance camera,then could use the infinity focus. but if the shorter Flange distance lens to longer Flange distance camera,then could not use the infinity focus,you can focus on a limited distance.

this adapter ring is not suitable for Samsung NX1000,NX2000,NX3000.

If you want to use nikon AI lens on this Nikon(G) adapter ring,it could be attached, but the aperture control ring could not be used，as there is a pin on Nikon G lens that could move the aperture control ring but no on AI lens.

If you adjust the aperture through the camera,after using the adapter ring,the aperture is no longer adjustable, and you need to set the aperture priority exposure;if the lens itself can adjust the aperture,you can adjust the aperture through the lens after connecting the adapter ring.

slight amount of rotational movement of the lens in the adapter is normal and nothing to be concerned about.All lenses rotate a slight amount in any mount (be it brand name or third party) this is due to the space needed for the locking pin to engage,so that slight rotational movement is the locking pin moving around in the hole. If there is ever any more than a slight amount of rotational play,you may want to try tightening the lens mount adapter so it will hold the lens tighter to the mount. There are 3 flanges in the middle of the adapter (what the lens locks onto) that are split open slightly,this gap is what gives the tension that holds the lens tight to the body.Over time and with use these gaps decrease in size, no longer pulling the lens tight to the adapter, which allows the lens to move inside the mount more than it should. To tighten the fit,get a slim metal object (a #1.5 or #2.0 small flat eyeglass screwdriver is ideal) and insert it into the slit to open it up just a little bit (see images below, make sure to do it to all 3 evenly).The more you open the gap, the tighter the lens will be to the adapter;too much and the lens will have a hard time mounting so make sure to do it just a little bit at a time to all 3 flanges evenly,it doesn’t take much at all to get a tight fit. Note:please do not use too much strength,or the shrapnel will be damaged.

If used your telephone lens with our adapter ring,we suggest to use with a lens bracket and better to shoot on a tripod to increase its stability.

There are two types of FD mounts: 1.FD/FL Breech-Mount (with a silver ring, you need to rotate the silver ring when attachment and removal),breech-lock mounts are identified by the silver ring 2.New-FD Bayonet Mount, bayonet mounts are identified by a red dot next to the lens release button Here are the steps to install breech-mount version: 1.Set your lens to smallest except for auto(bayonet mount only) 2.Rotating the Lock-Open ring of the adapter on the OPEN side 3.Line up the red dot with your lens and adapter ring(if yours is bayonet mount, just turn the adapter ring towards clockwise direction to make lens and adapter tight,then ignore the 4th step) 4.Turn your lens ring towards counterclockwise direction to make the adapter ring tight with your lens 5.Rotating the Lock-Open ring of the adapter on the LOCK side to engage the aperture closing pin Operating the adapter: 1.If you'd like to operate the lens aperture with the adapter;on your lens,set the aperture to the smallest opening and use the adapter ring 2.If you'd like to operate the lens aperture with the lens;place the adapter ring on the small aperture(Lock place) and control the aperture on the lens

Depending on the Canon FD lens you have there is one of two ways to remove it.If your lens is the older breech style lens there should be a thick silver or black colored ring against the adapter,this whole ring rotates to unlock the lens from the adapter (the lens itself stays stationary while the ring is the only part that rotates to unlock the lens, see attached).If the lens is the newer bayonet style then there should be a tab or button to press to unlock the lens so the whole lens can rotate off the adapter (see attached). The‘lock/open’ring on the adapter only controls the aperture of the lens (locks it down to the smallest opening set for metering and shooting or opens it up to the largest opening for viewing).It does not have anything to do with removing the lens from the adapter.

To remove this type of adapter from your lens there is a metal spring stop that needs to be moved out of the way of the lens flange for the adapter to be able to rotated and removed from the lens.

1.If your lens is missing the lens release button or tab, such as in the image below: 2.Use a small pointed object (such as a screwdriver, paper clip, etc) and insert the tip into the exposed hole. 3.Using the object, pull the lens locking pin down, this will release the lens on the adapter, which can now be rotated and removed (it usually helps to have a second pair of hands to help remove the lens as the pin is pulled back).

The inner ring of our M42 adapters do rotate as to allow the lenses from various manufacturers (not all of them'stop'at the same point) to sit'upright'when mounted on the adapter,the ring is normally clamped down using 3 set screws around the outer ring Over time these set screws work their way loose during numerous lenses being mounted and unmounted, they just need to be tightened back up every so often.If you know your lenses always stop at the same'upright'point,you can use a thread locking fluid on the set screws to help prevent them from getting loose in the future.

It must not be displayed on the camera monitor because the electronic signal cannot be transmitted to the camera; After using the manual ring, the lens needs to be manually focused. So aperture can only be estimated. However: some lenses have aperture scales on them, so you can see the aperture size If estimated, the depth of field is more obvious; In addition to controlling the amount of light, the aperture is more intuitive to control the depth of field. Large aperture = small depth of field, Small aperture = large depth of field So it is feasible to use the depth of field to estimate the aperture, but it is not as accurate.

Both the customer lens and the camera body are full-frame, and all the adapters on the EOS lens end must be remarked: The above adapters are not suitable for"STM"series Canon lenses such as EF 50mm f/1.8 STM or EF 18-135 IS STM and other models )

Typically,there are no ways to control the aperture of a Canon lenses,but we have found a few workarounds.But unfortunately,these will only work if you do have a Canon EOS-mount camera available: 1.Put the Canon EOS lens on a Canon EOS body and turn the camera on 2.Put the camera into Manual Mode and set the aperture to what you want to shoot at (ie,f/8) 3.Set the shutter speed to something super long,30 seconds for instance 4.Take a picture,and during the 30 second countdown,remove the lens from the camera * This will not harm the lens or the camera,the moment you put the lens back on a Canon EOS camera,the aperture will return to normal OR 1.Put the Canon EOS lens on a Canon EOS body and turn the camera on 2.Put the camera into Manual Mode and set the aperture to what you want to shoot at (ie, f/8) 3.Press your depth of field preview button 4.While still holding the depth of field preview button, remove the lens. Either method should lock the lens temporarily to what you set it at,f/8 for instance.So when you put the lens on the adapter you will be preset to f/8.One problem though is that this will make the viewfinder dark and hard to see or focus, so its best to do it right before you are ready to shoot.The other problem is that anytime you want to shoot at anything other than f/8,you will need to go through those steps again,so it’s not a fast or elegant solution,but it will work.